The Teutonia II Großdatum from Mühle is an elegant men’s dress watch of Germanic understated sophistication, with its clean and uncluttered dial and round polished stainless steel case.
Renowned for their high quality, hard wearing professional instruments the family owned Mühle watch company has long established a strong reputation as suppliers of robust and reliable watches to navy, coastguard and military forces. Thanks to their rugged good looks and superb build quality, Mühle’s nautical instruments have also found a strong following among collectors in the civilian world too. So, with its classic cues and execution the Teutonia collection reveals another, more reserved side to the company, and one which connects with its local surroundings in Germany’s watchmaking capital, Glashütte where Mühle have operated since 1869.
The Mühle Teutonia II Großdatum is presented in a 41mm polished round case of 316L stainless steel with a pronounced screw-in crown, and beneath the sapphire crystal the silver dial is decorated with bands of concentric guilloché rings whose varying textures create contrast in their detail. Its layout is configured with small constant seconds in a recessed subdial at the 6 o’clock position, and the Großdatum, or Big Date windows up at the 12. Here two white discs align to display the date as they converge. Blackened steel leaf hands and applied hour markers with black minutes indices all contribute towards an attractive men’s watch which is at the same time distinctive yet reserved.
Inside beats an ETA automatic movement which has been extensively modified by Mühle to accommodate the date complication, and which also features the in house patented ‘woodpecker’ neck regulating corrector on the beautifully engraved balance cock, and the proprietary oscillating weight. With Glashütte ribbing decorating the surfaces of the plates the movement has also been subjected to the rigorous trials to receive official chronometer status by the Glashütte Observatory, and all of which can be fully appreciated through the sapphire exhibition caseback.
Straight lugs extend just far enough to accommodate the crocodile leather strap, which is attached by four screws, and it secures to the wrist with a folding stainless steel deployant clasp.
Produced in a small limited edition of only 250 pieces, the Mühle Teutonia II Großdatum is a beautifully presented men’s dress watch which, considering the legend of Glashütte watchmaking, represents exceptional value for money.