A superb duo of exquisite wristwatches, which exemplify the elegance of pure and uncluttered design and an obsessive attention to detail, the new Square Micro Rotor Retro editions by Laurent Ferrier perpetuate the brand’s inimitable signature of understated but immaculate styling, and introduce a subtle twist of art deco inspired nostalgia, to celebrate a golden era of art, design and culture.
The ability to create a wristwatch which stands out with such distinction in any room, while still being so minimalist and refined in its styling, is a rare quality, yet it is one which this exceptional independent watch company has made its own. Originally inspired by the smooth, weathered erosion of a riverbed pebble, master watchmaker, and uncompromising perfectionist Laurent Ferrier set up his eponymous brand following a long and illustrious career at Patek Philippe, which included the realization of one of the great icons of contemporary sports watches, the Nautilus.
Measuring 41mm across and just over 11mm in height the Square Micro Rotor Retro editions are available in a choice of either 18ct 5N red gold or stainless steel, and are presented in a beautiful rounded, off-square cushion style case with soft flowing lines and contoured profile. Short, tapering lugs are stepped in from the case sides, and the fluted onion crown nestles into a concave recess. Timelessly elegant and sophisticated, it is a piece which has a graceful and refined presence on the wrist.
Beneath the gentle convex curvature of the sapphire crystal, the dial features a classic minutes track around its periphery, with sectored hours interrupted only by the numerals at 3, 9 and 12, in a flamboyant art deco font, and the small seconds subdial at the six. The red gold version features a black opaline dial, while the stainless steel alternative is complemented by a silvery-white opaline. Satin brushed bands around the hour circle and the small seconds provide an eye catching contrast of shades, and together with the delicately crafted Assegai spear style hour and minute hands, accentuate the meticulous attention to detail.
On the underside, a sapphire crystal exhibition caseback reveals the spectacle of the in-house self-winding movement. The FBN 229.01 calibre which powers these two new references has been manufactured in the tradition of classical haute horlogerie throughout. The bridges have been decorated with deep and pronounced Côtes de Genève stripes and the mainplate has been finished with circular graining. Elsewhere, the wheel spokes are bevelled, the screw heads have been polished and all of the hard to access interior angles around the edges of the plates are defined by their mirror polished anglage.
A technical Laurent Ferrier signature is the off-centred micro-rotor, which is made in solid gold, and its oscillations maintain a 72 hour power reserve, beating at 21’600vib/h, while the energy of the barrel spring is dissipated and regulated by the double direct impulse escapement, which was inspired by the “natural” escapement invented by Abraham-Louis Breguet, and which ensures optimal accuracy.
Technically and aesthetically flawless, the Square Micro Rotor Retro editions are the embodiment of the Laurent Ferrier code of spectacular yet reserved styling. They are presented on hand stitched alligator leather straps with pin buckles.