Beautifully executed throughout, the Havid Nagan Classic One Ivory debuts a rounded case for the company, and its perfectly proportioned diameter of 38mm is complemented by a slender height of only 9mm. Manufactured from stainless steel, the housing is incredibly complex, comprising of 29 parts, and the stepped profile of both the case and the bezel give it an eye-pleasing design depth. Enhancing the presence of the watch, the lugs are elongated, and their subtle flared forms and concave flanks exhibit exceptional detailing that elevates the character of the watch. To finish, the case is decorated with fine brushed and polished techniques.
The attention to detail continues with the dial, which displays an incredibly stylish multilayered aspect. Manufactured from traditional brass, the lower dial has been decorated with mesmerising clous de Paris tronqué guilloché onto varnished ruthenium. Laid directly over the fine guilloché, a sliver of sapphire holds both the minutes track and the small seconds markers so that they appear to be elevated, and as they cast a discreet shadow they offer further depth to the arrangement. The upper section, also brass, has been finished with a finely grained texture and its soft-white galvanised surface evokes a subtle emanating gradient. To finish, the applied diamond-cut hour markers are joined by faceted hour and minutes hands, which stand out superbly against the ivory surface, and they catch and play with the light with every movement bringing the dial to life.
On turning over, a sapphire crystal caseback reveals the AMT6600 manual winding movement which, adhering to the établissage ethos of Havid Nagan, has been sourced from AMT, a sister company of Sellita that manufactures high-end custom calibres. Featuring significant modifications specifically for the Classic One watch, the arrangement and finishing of the movement perfectly express a combination of modern techniques and old-school horology, with skeletonised and darkened bridges giving a glimpse of a rose-gold coated mainplate decorated with a soft hammered finish. Inspired by a pocket watch movement by Derek Pratt and Urban Jurgensen, the COSC certified calibre exhibits a satisfying level of craftsmanship, and beating at 28’800 vib/h, it has a power reserve of 63 hours.
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