A spectacular piece from the Faubourg de Cracovie collection by Czapek Genéve, the Secret Alloy Limited Edition chronograph reveals a magnificent hand engraved dial in bare and unpainted metal, and features a superb bespoke movement, all uncompromisingly manufactured to Haute Horlogerie standards and exceptional in every detail.
A classical complication that’s over two hundred years old, but which is more commonly adapted in our modern times to sports watches, each piece in the Faubourg de Cracovie collection is based around its proprietary integrated chronograph movement, and displayed as an elegant, dressy proposal.
The Faubourg de Cracovie is presented in a 41.5mm case of stainless steel, which features sculpted recesses that run from lug to lug along its waist, and a prominent dome of sapphire crystal which rises above the dial, creating a circle of refraction of the silvery dial as it turns in. Either side of the fluted crown, the chronograph pushers are integrated into the contour of the protective shoulders, so the flow of the round profile is unbroken.
Beneath the sapphire crystal in its bare metal, the dial is utterly captivating and irresistible to the eye. The Secret Alloy from which it is crafted is comprised of gold, platinum, palladium and silver, and is deeply engraved with Czapek’s Résonance guillochage. This mesmerising pattern of hand crafted concentric circles overlap and intersect to create a radiating ripple effect which spreads out across the surface of the gently domed dial, emanating from the twin centres of the subdials at the three and the nine.
The oxidised blued steel hands stand out in a striking contrast against this silvery background, and like the applied steel hour indices and numerals at the 12, are generously coated with Super LumiNova, ensuring excellent legibility even in low light conditions.
On the dial, the chronograph subdials are recessed with circular snailing, and display the thirty-minute and twelve-hour counters at the three and nine respectively, while the small constant seconds markers are printed onto the surface of the dial.
Inside beats a bespoke self winding movement by Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier. Unique to the Czapek Faubourg de Cracovie the Calibre SXH3 is an integrated chronograph mechanism, as opposed to the more commonplace and convenient practice where a chronograph module is affixed to an existing calibre. Featuring column wheel with vertical clutch and linear hammer which interact seamlessly, the chronograph action is silky smooth and instantly responsive. This state of the art movement beats at 36’000 vib/h with COSC certified chronometer precision, and delivers a power reserve of 65 hours from its single barrel. A sapphire caseback reveals the complex mechanism beneath the gold rotor and openworked anthracite grey plates.
Technically complex, beautifully designed and manufactured, the Czapek Faubourg de Cracovie Secret Alloy is a remarkable and elegant piece, whose shimmering naked dial is as irresistible to the eye as its sophisticated mechanism is refined in its horological innovation and traditional craftsmanship.
Only 26 years old, and already with her own independent watchmaking atelier, Shona Taine’s passion for watchmaking was forged when she was barely a decade
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