; ARNOLD AND SON HM PERPETUAL MOON REVIEW









ARNOLD AND SON HM PERPETUAL MOON

A superb wristwatch which depicts the passage of the phases of the moon in a spectacular widescreen setting, the HM Perpetual Moon by Arnold and Son is an outstanding piece from a brand renowned for its elegant and elaborate watches with distinguished aesthetics and beautifully executed bespoke haute horlogerie movements, while immortalising one of the truly great names in watchmaking history.

With its expansive aperture and big golden moon, set against a cream dial, the Arnold and Son HM Perpetual Moon is a magnificent dress watch which is irresistible to the eye, and surely among the most beautiful and spectacular interpretations of one of horology’s most enduring and romantic complications. Hand finished, and powered by a proprietary Manufacture hand winding movement, in partnership with its sibling movement manufactory La Joux-Perret, it is superbly crafted with exquisite detailing and finishing throughout.

Beneath the gently domed sapphire crystal, the dial is ivory coloured and is furnished with sharply faceted, tapering hour indices and broad gold hands which narrow to fine pointer tips. Dominating the entire upper half of the dial, it’s the moon phase display which is the focal point of this watch. The gold rimmed cutaway crescent window has been exaggerated to reveal the starry night sky on a rotating blue disc with sunray guilloché decoration, and of course the big gold moon with craters engraved by hand.

The round, polished 18ct red gold case measures 42mm across and features a squat, fluted crown as well as straight-edged lugs, which tail off with a curve at their ends. From the rounded bezel the case curves inwards slightly towards the underside, where a sapphire glass reveals the Manufacture A&S1512 manual winding movement within, and where a second secret dial displays the eight stages of the moon cycle.

Deriving a minimum of ninety hours of power reserve from its two barrels, beating at a frequency of 3Hz (21’600 vib/h), the proprietary calibre is finished to Haute Horlogerie standards, with Côtes de Genève stripes which emanate from the centre of the balance wheel and extend across the plate. Blued screws and swirled surfacing on the barrels and ratchet add contrast as do the hand chamfered edges of the plate and balance cock.

A watch with a magnetic allure and a presence which exceeds its own physical dimensions, the Arnold and Son HM Perpetual Moon is sophisticated and exclusive, as well as being a conversation starter in any formal setting, where it comes into its own. It is presented on a black hand stitched alligator leather strap with folding deployant clasp.
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