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Airain Type 20 wristwatch review

Founded by the Dodane family in 1934, Montres Airain have a significant provenance within the watchmaking landscape. During the 1950s and 1960s their acclaimed Type 20 watch was chosen to equip the elite pilots of the French Airforce, who favoured its quality, functionality and reliability, but despite this prestigious patronage, the arrival of quartz timepieces had a detrimental effect on the business. Having been revived by enthusiast Tom van Wijlick, Airain are back in business alongside their original sister company, Lebois & Co. with the legendary Airain Type 20 taking its rightful place as a portfolio highlight.


The requisite specifications that were once demanded by the world’s elite pilots made the original Type 20 watch usable and practical for the professional aviator, however these same features have become incredibly desirable by wristwatch wearers today. Considered by many to be a flawless design, Airain have paid tribute to the original piece with astounding authenticity, and have given it a state-of-the art manual winding calibre developed by La Joux-Perret featuring a flyback chronograph, the pinnacle of sports timing complications. Named Furtivité meaning ‘stealth’ in French, this exclusive edition is characterised by its incredibly stylish anthracite aesthetics.


The casing is sized at 39.5mm and is crafted from anthracite DLC stainless steel, with a brushed and polished finish. On the wrist, the sharp profile of the lugs and the prominent pushers and neat grooved crown give it character, while a brushed finish enhances the bi-directional bezel which has a 12 hour scale and a notched rim. The screw down caseback is engraved with the provenance and reference details, and adhering to the authenticity of this new piece, and the case is fitted with a double domed sapphire crystal.


Clean, crisp and legible, the dial is anthracite with contrasting beige Super-LumiNova on the raised, hand-applied arabic numerals and the hands. Brimming with details and design nuances, four styles of hands are employed for the hours and minutes, the central seconds, the 30 min counter and the small seconds counter, with lance, arrow-headed, baton, and straight shaped examples used to differentiate the indications.


Inside, and beating at a rate of 28’800 vib/h, the manual winding calibre AM1 which has been developed by La Joux-Perret features a column-wheel chronograph with flyback complication. An original feature of the Type 20 military editions that ensured a pilot could easily stop and reset the chronograph via the pusher at 4 o’clock while wearing heavy gloves, its inclusion elevates the prestige of this faithful re-edition.


Limited to only 134 pieces, the Airain Type 20 Furtivité watch is presented on a suede strap, secured with an Airain signed double buckle.


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